So you fancy a bit of a 'Mongrel' then?
This is the place to start.... Now
unfortunately for us mere mortals for whom 'bike
butchering' is not a natural process, Mr Haynes
doesn't produce a manual (bloody shame, I say!)
So, we have to do it the hard way... or do
It occurred to me that there are a fair number
of 'RG / YPVS Hybrids' out there already, and
that the people who built 'em must have a few
hints and tips, if we could get them to part
with them. So after a bit of badgering, Nick
(NuttyNick from the RD Forum) was persuaded
to let me have the photographs he thoughtfully
took while building just such a machine, and
provided some choice tips on construction &
solving the problems we are likely to encounter.
Read on for one account of how it was done.....
Disclaimer: This was how Nick
did it. All the information is to the best of
his recollection. Do NOT blame him if yours
goes wrong. Also, all pictures show a first
build So don't worry about odd sized bolts and
the use of cable ties etc. The bike will be
finished with nice brackets etc. after a shake
Find yourself a good chassis, preferably from
a Mk1 or Mk2 (twin discs), as they have a nice
Find yourself a good RD350YPVS motor. You will
also need the carbs (with some sort of K&N
type filter), the complete wiring loom with
ALL boxes eg: YPVS control boxes, fuse box,
powervalve servo, flasher unit with canceller,
switchgear, ignition switch (with key!) coil
& Tacho (Cable or electric).
Don't forget you will need a clutch cable and
throttle & YPVS cables and one for the tacho
if its cable driven. These all cost money so
try to get them thrown in as a job lot.
Find a local engineer to machine up some spacers
The front engine spacers are as follows:
- 1 x 50mm long, with an ID of 10mm.
- 1 X 18mm long with an ID of 10mm.
For the rear you will need:
2 x rear engine plates, approx 35mm long with
a 10mm hole at either end 27mm apart. Both plates
9mm thick. I had mine made of 10mm plate and
had to file them to fit.
Remove the bodywork, fuel tank, seat, side
panels etc to give you access to the motor and
electrics. Drain and remove the rad put it somewhere
safe, you'll need it later.
Remove the exhausts, carbs, and electrics from
the motor. Do NOT try to prise
the airbox out of the frame it won't come out
of the frame until the engine is out!
Remove the rest of the wiring loom from the
bike including the ignition switch. Remove the
clocks and ditch the RG tacho. The YPVS tacho
will sit in the hole nicely so don't panic!
Do not cut any of the loom at the back of the
clocks, use the block connectors from the RG
loom later so that everything is a nice plug
in job. Remove the switchgear and all Cdi /
fuse boxes and the coils.
(continued on page 2)
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