Now stand back and grin!!!
Front spacers shown.
Rear spacers shown.
This picture shows the sprocket cover modified
to fit the frame. I re-used the RG gear lever
BUT this will give you a reversed shift
pattern so beware.
You can now fit the top end onto the motor.
The only way I could get it to fit was to fit
the pistons into the cylinders first, and then
lower them onto the motor. I know this is obvious,
but make sure the piston circlip can't fall
into the cases when you go to fit it! Before
you start, offer up the L/H cylinder complete
with the PV housing. You'll find that you need
to file a few mil off the forward bolt bulge
to miss the frame downtube.
This is one of my lovely barrels…
The top end on.
Now things start to get tricky! Offer the RG
radiator up to the frame. The first things that
are obvious are that the hoses are a nightmare!
Look at the pics to see what I mean.
The top hose problem!
The bottom hose problem.
I found that I have only used the lower rubbers
and tilted the rad forwards slightly to allow
the hoses to fit. To do this you will need to
relocate the horn(by the cdi?) and make up some
weird hoses to suit. I blagged some old hose
parts from my local Triumph dealer that I chopped
up and used some sleeve with. The top hose was
just an angled bit of hose that sort of fits?
It's got a bit of a kink so I placed a jubilee
clip at this point to keep it round. Again I
will be changing that.
The bottom hose is just 2 right angle hoses
with a joining sleeve(a bit of old mountain
bike handlebar!!) It works! You will find that
you have a spare brass coolent fitting on the
rear of the head. Block it up and remove the
thermostat job done. Look at the pic in step
11 if you want to see how I blocked it for initial
start-up!! No, I do not recommend the use of
AAA batteries for this purpose! Now fill with
coolent before you forget.
As you can see, the top of the rad will need
some brackets making up to support it.
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